I am often asked when it will be more affordable to travel to Europe with the current value of the dollar so low. The truth is that one can always make travel more affordable. With smart planning, a change in…

As I sat to write my latest travel article, I wanted to focus my attention on Saint Paul to celebrate the beginning of the Pauline Year. But as I began to write, I realized that to do the man any…

We return today to the cathedral of Rome, Saint John Lateran. We were last here on Palm Sunday and we'll be back on Holy Saturday.

Today, let's start outside, beside the church. Near the side entrance stands the tallest and oldest authentic Egyptian obelisk in the world. This single block of Egyptian red granite stands over 100 feet tall. It first stood in the Temple of the Sun in Heliopolis today's Egypt. The obelisk dates back to the fifteenth century, that's fifteenth century, B.C. Because of the age and where it was located, it's believed to have been seen by Moses. It's been in Rome since the first century B.C. It was moved to the Lateran in 1588.

Saint Paul writes in Romans 16:3-5: "Salute Prisca and Aquila, my helpers in Christ Jesus (who have for my life laid down their own necks: to whom not I only I give thanks, but also all the churches of the…

Nearly three weeks ago, we visited the church of Santa Pudenziana. That church is built over the ancient home of Senator Pudens, the home where Saint Peter first stayed after his arrival in Rome. The church is dedicated to the…

Sacrosancta Lateranensis ecclesia omnium urbis et orbis ecclesiarum mater et caput. Of all the churches in the city and the world, the Most Holy Lateran church is the mother and the head. This phrase is inscribed above the entrance to Saint John Lateran.

Surely this is a mistake, right? Isn't Saint Peter's Basilica the mother and head of all churches?

No, as lovely and important as Saint Peter's may be, it is not the mother and head of all the churches. This title belongs to Rome's cathedral, Saint John Lateran.

After Constantine defeated Maxentius in 312, he marched to this spot and dedicated the land to Christ. He gave the property to the Church so that a place for public worship could be built. As the first cathedral of Rome, it was dedicated Basilica Salvatoris, the Basilica of the Saviour. The church eventually became known as Saint John Lateran, named for both Saint John the Baptist and Saint John the Evangelist.

Today we visit the church of Saint John before the Latin Gate. The church is dedicated to Saint John the Evangelist and the name refers to the ancient tradition of his time in Rome. Saint John was brought from Ephesus to Rome under orders by Emperor Domitian. He was to be punished for his faith. When John neared the city, the emperor went to meet him by the Latin Gate, one of the gates in the wall surrounding Rome. Domitian first had John tortured, then boiled in a cauldron of oil. When they brought the saint out of the boiling oil, he was still very much alive, in fact, they say refreshed, as if he had just taken a nice soak in the tub. The emperor was quite shaken by this and exiled him to the (very beautiful, by the way) island of Patmos, where he would go on to write the Apocalypse.

Today we visit Rome's first circular church, San Stefano Rotondo. Modeled after the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem, this church has almost the identical circumference and diameter. The church was once made up of three circular walkways which surrounded the nave. The outer ring fell into disrepair, so now just two circular aisles remain.

Lining the walls of the outermost ring are twenty-four sixteenth century frescos each depicting a scene of horrific martyrdom. The scenes even include descriptions of the event and name the emperor responsible for the execution. Not long after the completion of the frescos, seminarians were encouraged to study the scenes. Not only did the scenes show them what the early martyrs endured for their faith, but they also helped prepare for possible future torment, especially  for those about to be sent off as missionaries.

Today's church is dedicated to the martyr Saint Apollinaris, a disciple of Saint Peter and the first bishop of Ravenna. He was responsible for converting many to the faith and faced nearly constant persecution throughout his life. He was arrested on three occasions and thrown out of the city. When he returned yet again, and was arrested yet again, he was beaten and left for dead. He eventually died from the wounds.

This church was founded in the seventh century, using materials from nearby imperial ruins. It was declared a station church by Pope Gregory II in the eighth century. One thousand years later, Pope Benedict XIV completely rebuilt and rededicated the church.

The tradition surrounding today's church states that during the reign of Emperor Maxentius, Pope Saint Marcellus was arrested. He was freed by the faithful and hidden in the home of a Roman woman named Lucina. While here, the Holy Father built a small chapel in her house. But, he was soon rearrested and the emperor turned the property into a stable and forced the pope to work as a stable hand. Due to the exhausting work and lack of provisions, Pope Marcellus eventually died. He was buried in the catacombs of Saint Priscilla.

Emperor Maxentius continued his rule until October 28, 312, when he went to battle with his brother-in-law, Constantine. This was the battle that led to the legalization of Christianity. The night before the battle, Constantine had a vision of the cross and heard, "in hoc signo vinces", in this sign you will conquer. He ordered his men to mark their shields with the sign of the cross. The next day, the two armies met at the Milvian Bridge. Constantine defeated Maxentius and became the first Christian Emperor of Rome.

Tradition tells us that today's station church, Santa Maria in Via Lata, is built over the house where Saint Peter, Saint Luke and Saint John the Evangelist once lived. It is also said that Saint Paul spent two years here while under house arrest. It is believed that this is where he wrote the Letter to the Hebrews. That, then, would make this the place where Paul converted Onesimus, which we read about in The Epistle of Saint Paul to Philemon.

The first oratory was built over this spot in the fifth century, with the church added in the ninth century. The church as it stands today was completed in 1491. Above the altar is a thirteenth century icon of the Blessed Virgin, said to have caused many miracles.

Today's church, originally known as Titulus Chrysogoni, was one of the first twenty-five parishes in Rome. It was first built in the fourth century over the home of Saint Chrysogonus. The church was enlarged in the twelfth century and finally rebuilt again in the seventeenth century.

Interesting in this church are the rooms on either side of the apse. These rooms, known as pastophoria, are quite common in Eastern churches, through rare in the west. The room to the right, a diaconium, would have been used as a type of sacristy, the room to the left, a protesis, would have contained holy relics.

Today we visit Saint Nicholas in Prison. No, Santa Claus was not imprisoned here. But this church, dedicated to Saint Nicholas of Myra, is traditionally thought to have been built over the site of an ancient prison.

A story states that a woman was incarcerated here and condemned to die of starvation. She was kept alive by her daughter's milk. When the church was established, it was dedicated to Saint Nicholas, patron saint of prisoners.

The church stands near the site of an ancient vegetable market, the Forum Holitorium. It is thought that this church was built using the ruins of the ancient Temple of Piety, which dates back to 165 B.C.

The church of Sant'Eusebio is named for the priest Eusebius, condemned to die of starvation in AD 357.

The priest held Mass daily here in his home. After his martyrdom, Pope Liberius consecrated this house church as Titulus Eusebii, one of the first parish churches in Rome. The church was rebuilt in 1238, with interior modifications in the seventeenth and twentieth centuries. The façade is from 1711 by Stefano Fontana, the same architect who restored San Clemente which we visited a few weeks ago.

On January 17 of each year, pets are brought to Sant'Eusebio for a special blessing. The blessing used to occur down the street at the church of Saint Anthony the Great. As Saint Anthony of Egypt is a patron saint of animals, the blessing would take place on his feast day, January 17. Saint Anthony's is now attached to Rome's Russicum, the Russian College, and celebrates the Byzantine Rite. The blessing was eventually moved to the piazza outside of Sant'Eusebio.

Today we visit the ancient parish of Titulus Equitii, now known as Saint Martin in the Hills. The original church was built in the early fourth century by Pope Saint Sylvester. In 325 a synod was held here to prepare for the Council of Nicaea. It was here too that the Nicene Creed was first proclaimed in Rome.

In the sixth century, the church was restored and dedicated to Saint Martin of Tours. It was heavily restored yet again in 1650. 
Pope Saint Sylvester celebrated Mass at this church and his papal throne is preserved here along with his miter.

There are a few landscape paintings inside that contain images of Constantine's Saint Peter's Basilica, and an early version of the Lateran Basilica. These are thought to be the first landscapes painted for a church.

Today we travel outside the walls (Fuori le Mura) of Rome to visit the Basilica of Saint Paul. This is one of the four major basilicas of Rome. Now known as a papal basilica, this was known as the patriarchal basilica associated with the ancient see of Alexandria. You may recall we visited another former patriarchal basilica, San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura, associated with Jerusalem, a few days ago. We visit this church today because  this was the traditional site of the first scrutiny for those about to be Baptized.
Around the year AD 67, the Apostle Paul was sentenced to death. Because he was Roman, he was taken outside the walls of Rome and beheaded. A legend surrounding his execution says that when he was beheaded, his head bounced three times. Each time his head hit the ground a spring shot up. A church was built over the spot and named Tre Fontana. The saint was buried a few miles down the road and his tomb was marked by a small shrine.

Yet another station church dedicated to Saint Lawrence! The fourth, for anyone counting.

The fourth century pope, Pope Saint Damasus, built a church here over his former home. The church was known as Titulus Damasi and was one of the first twenty-five parishes of Rome. The church is now named Saint Lawrence in the House of Damasus.

Pope Damasus had a strong devotion to the Church's martyrs and was well known for his work in building great shrines over their tombs in the catacombs. He even worked to have the water in the Vatican crypts drain properly so that the bodies would not be affected by the dampness.

Today's church is dedicated to four Roman soldiers, Carpophorus, Severianus, Severius and Victorius who refused to honor a statue of the god Aesculapius and were subsequently put to death. This ninth century church is built over the ancient Titulus Aemilianae, one of the first twenty-five parishes of Rome.

The church was restored under Pope Innocent IV so that it could function as a fortress. It was the only fortified abbey in Rome in the Middle Ages and was used by several popes who did not feel safe in the Lateran Palace.

The church contains the relics of the Four Crowned Saints and also the skull of Saint Sebastian.

Laetare Jerusalem! Rejoice, O Jerusalem! It's not by chance that we visit Holy Cross in Jerusalem today on Laetare Sunday. This Sunday gets it's name from the Introit of the Mass where we sing "Rejoice (Laetare), O Jerusalem!". Today's church is named for Jerusalem.

During the reign of Constantine, his mother, Saint Helen, lived in the Sessorianum Palace. Having just returned from Jerusalem, Helen had a church built inside her residence to house the treasures she collected on her journey. Her son dedicated the church a basilica. Over the years this basilica has been restored several times. It was converted into a three aisled basilica by Pope Lucius. Pope Alexander VI added a gilded ceiling. 
Below the main altar is an urn containing relics from Saint Caesarius and Saint Anastasius.

Today we visit the American parish in Rome, Santa Susanna. The church was originally named Titulus Gaius for Saint Gabinus. Gabinus, Pope Saint Caius' brother, owned the home over which this church was built. The current church is named for Gabinus' daughter, Saint Susanna. Susanna is said to have been a very beautiful and well educated woman, so much so that the emperor Diocletian wanted her to marry his adopted son, Maximian. She considered herself a bride of Christ and refused to marry, so she was put to death. She was beheaded in her home alongside her father.

The church was first built in 330, but rebuilt in 1593. The Baroque façade was completed in 1603 by Carlo Maderno, just a few years before he began the façade of another church, Saint Peter's Basilica.
Inside the church are the tombs of Saint Susanna, Saint Gabinus, Saint Felicity, her son Saint Silvanus, Pope Saint Eleuterus and Saint Genesius.

Today we visit the church of Saint Lawrence. The name Lucina refers to the Roman woman who owned the property on which this church was built. During the fourth century she hid Pope Saint Marcellus in her home during the Maxentius persecutions. At least one papal election took place here in the year 366 when Pope Saint Damasus was elected pope.

In the fourth century a small oratory was built over the ruins of Lucina's house. The church was dedicated Titulus Lucinae, one of the first twenty-five parishes of Rome. It was restored several times before being completely rebuilt in 1112 under Pope Paschal II. 
Over the high altar is a famous painting of Christ's crucifixion by Guido Reni. Below the altar is the gridiron on which Saint Lawrence was martyred.

Today we visit the church of Saints Cosmas and Damian. Cosmas and Damian excelled in medicine and offered their services for free. During the Diocletian persecutions, they were arrested. Because they would not renounce their faith, they were tortured. They suffered no injury during an attempted drowning or when they were burned. Crucifixion did not kill them either. They did finally die by the sword, when they were beheaded. We remember them in the Roman Canon at Mass.

The church we visit today, located just outside the Roman Forum, dates back all the way to the first century A.D. Actually, the building dates back that far; the structure was not dedicated a church until the sixth century. The body of the church was built by Vespasian sometime between A.D. 69-79 and used as a government building. Another building, actually in the Roman Forum, was built beside this one as a mausoleum for Maxentius' son. It was known as the Temple of Romulus. Pope Felix IV joined the two buildings and rededicated them a church. This was the first time a pagan temple was converted to a church in the Roman Forum.

Today we visit San Sisto Vecchio, Saint Sixtus the Old. Named ‘the old' because it is the oldest monastery in Rome.

Twice throughout our Lenten Station pilgrimage I've mentioned the story of Saint Lawrence meeting up with Pope Saint Sixtus II while the Holy Father was headed towards his martyrdom. This church is built over the spot where the meeting took place.

First built in the fourth century, it was known as Titulus Trigridae Named for the owner of the land. The church was rebuilt by Innocent III, shortly thereafter, it was given to Saint Dominic, who established a Dominican convent here. He lived in the monastery for some time before moving to Santa Sabina, the first church we visited.

On my tours, I often ask the group to name the cathedral of Rome. Many know the correct answer is Saint John Lateran. Some, understandably, think that Saint Peter's Basilica is the cathedral. 
Now, if I were to ask where…

Today we visit the basilica of San Marco. First dedicated to Saint Mark the Evangelist, the church was later also dedicated to Pope Saint Mark, who once lived on this site.

This is one of Rome's oldest churches, built around the…

Today, as we continue our pilgrimage to the Lenten Station Churches, we visit San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura, Saint Lawrence Outside the Walls. Almost two weeks ago we visited San Lorenzo in Panisperna, where Saint Lawrence died and where his…

Today we visit the church of Santi Marcellino e Pietro.

Saint Marcellinus, a priest, and Saint Peter, an exorcist, suffered under the the Diocletian persecutions. While in prison, Peter offered to free his pagan jailer's daughter from an evil spirit that…

Today we visit the church of San Vitale, located on the bustling street of Via Nazionale.

In the late fourth century a small chapel was built here to honor the martyrs Saint Gervase and Saint Protase. In the fifth century a…

Today we visit one of the oldest parish churches in Rome, Santa Maria in Trastevere. Santa Maria is so old, in fact, that many believe this is the first church where Mass was celebrated openly.

The faithful have been gathering in…

Today we travel across the Tiber into the Trastevere neighborhood to visit the church of Santa Cecilia.

At sixteen, Cecilia, a Christian, vowed to remain forever a virgin. Her father, however, had different plans and arranged for her to wed Valerian,…

Today's station church is Santa Balbina, located up the Aventine Hill, overlooking the ancient Baths of Caracalla. The church is named for the second century virgin martyr, Balbina. Originally built in 336, this is one of the original twenty-five titular…

San Clemente, today's station church, is one of the greatest places to experience Rome's many layers. Here, a twelfth century basilica sits on top of a fourth century basilica which was built over a, possibly, first century house with a…

Perhaps better known by it's nickname, Santa Maria della Navicella, today's station church is Santa Maria in Domnica. In the ninth century, a church was built here over the site of a third century house. The home, owned by a…

Today we travel to Santi Apostoli, the church of the Holy Apostles, to visit the tomb of apostles, Saint Philip and Saint James the Less. That we visit the church today on Friday of the Quattro Tempora di Primavera, is…

We continue our Lenten pilgrimage through the station churches of Rome with a visit to the church of San Lorenzo in Panisperna. The church is located over the site of Saint Lawrence's martyrdom, just a few blocks from yesterday's church,…

Today we visit Santa Maria Maggiore, Saint Mary Major. This is our first of three visits to this church throughout Lent. Today we'll discuss the story of how this basilica, also known as Our Lady of the Snows, came to…

Today's station church, Sant'Anastasia is one of the original twenty five titular churches. The church was built by a wealthy woman named Anastasia in the fourth century. Though the original church was named for her, Titulus Anastasiae, today's church is…

Just a few blocks away from the craziness that is Piazza Navona sits the church of Sant'Agostino.

Originally, the titular church of San Trifone sat nearby. The property was given to the Augustinians and construction on the current church, dedicated to…

Located a short distance from the Colosseum, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is our stop for today.

Named for the martyrs of the fourth century, this church is dedicated to two wealthy brothers who served in Constantine's court under his daughter, Constantia.…

Today's station church is San Giorgio al Velabro, Saint George in Velabro. Velabro, meaning marshy land, is the name given to the area in Rome near Palatine Hill where the Tiber makes a sharp turn. The area would often flood…

Pilgrims who travel to Rome during Lent can participate in a beautiful custom that dates back to the fourth century. It's a custom that began as a way to strengthen the sense of community in the city while honoring the…

I was an Anglican priest the summer I met St. Thérèse of Lisieux. I was living in England and had three months free between jobs, so I decided to make a pilgrimage to Jerusalem. I was going to hitch hike…

One of the more fascinating and dare I say haunting encounters one has while traveling is the relics and incorruptible bodies found in churches throughout the world. Some are hard to find, such as the incorruptible body of St. Antoninus…

Yesterday we celebrated the feast of St. Francis. While many will write about his life and works, I would like to take you on a walk through his hometown of Assisi.

Since most people arrive by train, let's begin here in…

The Governorate of Vatican City State today opened a new Internet portal (www.vaticanstate.va) in order to meet the needs of the ever increasing numbers of pilgrims and tourists in the Vatican, and to respond to the continuous requests for information…

As a Catholic apologist for the last 20 years, I've learned how important it is to listen carefully to what people ask me about the Church.

Trying to interpret the reasons behind people's questions helps me to ascertain how I can best…

When the scorching Roman sun reflecting off the stones of the Forum turns the city into a giant oven, tourists get a new take on an old attraction - the Fountains of Rome. The Trevi and the Four Rivers fountains are…

This Fall, Monsignor Chuck Kosanke, President of the American Friends of the Vatican Library will lead a group of pilgrims to Rome in celebration of the 25th Anniversary of the formation of the American Friends of the Vatican Apostolic Library.…

While I was studying in the seminary in Rome, I had the great privilege of leading pilgrims through what is known as the scavi tour underneath St. Peter’s (scavi is the Italian word for excavations).

For those of you who have not…